Mytee S-300H Portable Carpet Extractor

Compact yet powerful, the Mytee S-300H Heated Tempo delivers full-size cleaning performance in a lightweight 26-pound package. Equipped with a 600-watt REAL HEAT™ system and a 2-stage vacuum motor producing 85" of water lift and 97 CFM, it easily tackles embedded dirt, spots, and stains on carpets and upholstery. Despite its small size, this sub-compact extractor is built for serious cleaning, making it ideal for auto detailers, mobile cleaning professionals, and carpet care businesses that value portability without sacrificing performance.

Designed for convenience and durability, the S-300H features rust-resistant roto-molded housing, smooth-rolling casters, and a 25-foot power cord. It comes ready to use with a 4" upholstery tool, combination vacuum and solution hose, and hose wrap for easy storage.

This unit is also available as an S-300H Value Bundle that includes the extractor plus a chemical kit

We stock a full inventory of replacement parts to ensure your S-300H remains reliable for years of efficient, professional-grade cleaning. Browse replacement parts here.

Benefits:

• Compact with Full-Size Performance: Despite its small size, this carpet extractor boasts the performance of a full-size model.
• Built for Portability: Featuring an ultra-lightweight 26-pound construction and an integrated handle, this design makes it easy to lift this extractor in and out of vans and trailers.
• Powerful Vacuum: It features a single 2-stage low amp vacuum motor that provides 85" of water lift and 97 CFM to help you clean carpets efficiently and deliver outstanding results.
• Durable Rust-Resistant Housing: Roto-molded polyethylene housing resists rust and dents, ensuring long-lasting performance, and the extractor maintains a clean appearance.
• Serviceability: Mytee offers an extensive inventory of replacement parts for all its carpet extractors, ensuring quick and efficient on-site repairs. We stock a comprehensive selection of their replacement parts, so you can easily find the components needed to keep your Mytee S-300H Tempo operating smoothly.

Mytee S-300H Specifications:

• Heater:
  • REAL HEAT System
  • 600 Watt
  • 210 Degrees Fahrenheit - Maximum
• Vacuum:
  • Single 2-Stage Vacuum Motor
  • 97 CFM
  • 85" water lift
• Solution Tank:
  • 1-gallon (3.8 L) capacity
• Vacuum Tank:
  • 1-gallon (3.8 L) capacity
• Pump: 
  • Solenoid Pump
  • 55 PSI
  • 0.37 GPM
• Body:
  • Roto-molded polyethylene housing
  • 3" (7.6 cm) casters all around
• Amp Draw (110-120V 60Hz Model):
  • 12 amps
• Power Cord:
  • Single 25' (7.6 m) 12/3
• Machine Dimensions:
  • 20" x 10" x 16.5" (50.8 cm x 25.4 cm x 42 cm)
• Machine Weight:
  • 26 lbs.
• Shipping Weight:
  • 39.00 lbs.

Include Accessories:

• 4" plastic upholstery tool (8400P)
• 8' vacuum and internal solution hose combo
• Heatguard Hose Wrap (G079)
• 25' power cord (E631

Maintaining Your Mytee S-300H:

Daily Maintenance

• Inspect and clean the solution and vacuum tanks.
• Clean and inspect hoses for wear and holes.
• Check and clean internal filters.
• Inspect the power supply cable.
• Clean the machine with an all-purpose cleaner and a cloth.
• Check spray nozzles.

Weekly Maintenance

• Flush solution system with Mytee System Maintainer (3601).
• Inspect vacuum hoses for wear, holes, and loose cuffs.
  Check for clogs.
• If clogged, remove spray tips and soak them in a recommended liquid neutralizer for up to six hours.
• To remove the spray tip, twist the spray tip body counterclockwise.
• Lubricate wheels with water-resistant oil.
• Inspect the machine for water leaks and loose hardware.

Troubleshooting Your Mytee S-300H:

Vacuum Troubleshooting

• The vacuum won't turn on:
  • Cause:
    • The vacuum may not be getting power.
  • Solution:
    • Inspect the electrical connections and the switch. Check for any loose or damaged wires. To test the switch: First, remove the switch plate. Take a photo of the wire arrangement or label the wires so you can reconnect them correctly later. Next, swap the wires from the vacuum switch with the wires from either the pump or heater switch. Then, turn on the pump or heater switch (whichever one you used for the exchange). If the vacuum starts running, it means the vacuum switch is faulty.
• The vacuum is not producing suction:
  • Cause 1:
    • The recovery tank is full.
  • Solution 1:
    • Empty the recovery tank.
  • Cause 2:
    • Vacuum hose blockage (if there is no suction or exhaust).
  • Solution 2:
    • Inspect the hose thoroughly for any obstructions, beginning at the cleaning tool and working your way toward the machine.
  • Cause 3:
    • Clogged filter in the vacuum tank.
  • Solution 3:
    • Clean out the filter regularly.
  • Cause 4:
    • The drain valve or cap is not properly tightened, resulting in an air leak.
  • Solution 4: 
    • Tighten the drain valve/cap.
  • Cause 5:
    • Hose cuffs are loose and causing air leakage.
  • Solution 5:
    • Tighten all hose cuffs regularly as they may loosen over time.
    • Use glue to prevent cuffs from coming loose (an optional recommendation from Mytee).
  • Cause 6:
    • The lid on the tank is loose, which is causing air leakage.
  • Solution 6:
    • Make sure the lid is tight.
• Vacuum blows water out the exhaust:
  • Cause:
    • Foam is building up in the recovery tank.
  • Solution:
    • Use a defoaming solution in the recovery tank.
• There is a loud grinding noise coming from the vacuum:
  • Cause:
    • Debris has been sucked into the vacuum motor chamber. Usually results from dry vacuuming.
  • Solution:
    • Replace the vacuum motor. To avoid a repeated problem, DO NOT dry vacuum with your extractor.

Pump Troubleshooting

• The pump doesn’t turn on:
  • Cause 1:
    • Bad switch at the control panel.
  • Solution 1:
    • Unbolt the switch plate. Take a photo of the wire arrangement or label each wire to use as a reference later. Switch the wires from the pump switch with the wires from either the vacuum or heater switch. Turn on the vacuum or heater switch (whichever one you exchanged wires with). If the pump turns on, the pump switch is bad.
  • Cause 2:
    • Loose or disconnected wire.
  • Solution 2:
    • Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet. Carefully open the machine and inspect for any loose or disconnected wires. Securely reconnect or replace any faulty wires as needed.
• Pump runs, but there is no spray:
  • Cause 1:
    • There is a blockage or a kink somewhere in the line.
  • Solution 1:
    • Open the extractor and inspect the hoses connected to and from the pump for any signs of kinks or obstructions. If you notice any bends or blockages, carefully straighten or clear the hoses as needed.
  • Cause 2:
    • Air is in the pump.
  • Solution 2:
    • Prime the pump.
    • Detach the QD from the machine and solution hose. Ensure the three-prong clip inside the threaded end is evenly aligned just below the QD’s threads.
• Pump runs, but there is no spray:
  • Cause:
    • On a new unit, the check valve located between the pump and heater can sometimes stick, which may reduce or completely block the flow of water.
  • Solution:
    • Temporarily remove the check valve and briefly turn on the pump to see if water flows from the outlet hose—this will help determine the source of the issue. If the pump operates correctly with the check valve removed, the solution is to install a new check valve, ensuring the correct orientation for flow direction. Tip: You may be able to temporarily restore the check valve by gently freeing the poppet ball with a thin tool, such as a straightened paperclip. After troubleshooting, reinstall the check valve as part of the assembly. NEVER OPERATE THE UNIT WITHOUT THE CHECK VALVE IN PLACE.
• Pump runs for a second then shuts down:
  • Cause:
    • QD is pressure locked.
  • Solution:
    • Relieve pressure from behind the QD by pressing the button inside the QD.
• Low PSI:
  • Cause:
    • The jet nozzle could be too large.
  • Solution:
    • Replace the jet with one that has a smaller opening.
• The pump doesn’t stop running:
  • Cause 1:
    • There is a leak somewhere along the line.
  • Solution 1:
    • Detach the solution hose from the machine. If the pump stops running after disconnection, the issue likely originates outside the machine, possibly within the solution hose or the attached tool. If the pump continues to run, open the machine and inspect for any leaks. Address and repair any leaks found.
  • Cause 2:
    • Cracks or vacuum leaks on the inlet side of the pump.
  • Solution 2:
    • Ensure all hoses are firmly secured. If you notice any cracks or damage on the inlet side of the pump, replace the pump promptly.
  • Cause 3:
    • Seals have degraded due to harsh chemicals.
  • Solution 3:
    • Install a seal repair kit.
  • Cause 4:
    • Debris is blocking the inlet filter or pump head.
  • Solution 4:
    • Clean filter and/or pump head.
• Pump trips the circuit breaker when turned on:
  • Cause 1:
    • Short in the power switch.
  • Solution 1:
    • Test the system by swapping the vacuum and pump switch. If this resolves the issue but causes the vacuum to trip the breaker instead, the switch (E515) should be replaced.
  • Cause 2:
    • Short in the electrical harness.
  • Solution 2:
    • Warning: Risk of electric shock. Proceed with caution. Disconnect the pump from the circuit by connecting the power leads directly. If the breaker still trips when the switch is operated, there may be a short to ground in the circuit. Inspect and replace any damaged wiring as necessary.
  • Cause 3:
    • Short in the pump motor.
  • Solution 3:
    • If the switch and harness check is OK, the short may be in the pump motor. Replace the pump.

Heater Troubleshooting

• The heater is not heating water:
  • Cause 1:
    • Loose electrical connection.
  • Solution 1:
    • Check all electrical connections, including the power cord and harness.
  • Cause 2:
    • The automatic sensor has failed, causing the manual sensor to trip.
  • Solution 2:
    • Reset the manual sensor by pressing the small white and yellow button located at the center of the sensor. If the reset is successful but the heater continues to trigger the manual sensor, the next step is to replace the automatic sensor (E573) on the heater.
  • Cause 3:
    • The heater element has failed.
  • Solution 3:
    • To ensure proper operation, measure the element’s continuity by checking the amperage. If the readings indicate low amps, only a portion of the heating element is functioning, meaning the element is compromised and should be replaced.
  • Cause 4:
    • Bad power switch.
  • Solution 4:
    • If the element, sensors, and wiring all check out okay, there may be a bad switch on the switch plate.
• Running out of hot water too fast.
  • Cause 1:
    • Too much water is flowing through the heater.
  • Solution 1:
    • For optimal results, start with one wet pass using your machine, followed by two dry passes. This method minimizes water usage and helps your hot water supply last longer.
  • Cause 2:
    • The jets being used are too large.
  • Solution 2:
    • If your machine has a 1,000W or 1,200W heating system, make sure your cleaning tool has 0.02 jets.
  • Cause 3:
    • The water in the tank is cold.
  • Solution 3:
    • For faster heating, try filling your solution tank with warm water. Most pumps are designed to handle water temperatures up to 140°F.
  • Cause 4:
    • Mineral deposits from hard water have accumulated inside the heater, resulting in decreased efficiency.
  • Solution 4:
    • Regularly use Mytee System Maintainer™ (3601) in your machine to prevent hard water buildup and chemical residue, which can restrict water flow and lower heating performance. For detailed instructions, refer to the product label.
• The unit has vapor locked, and there is no water pumping out of the unit.
  • Cause:
    • Turning on the heater before turning on the pump and priming the unit.
  • Solution:
    • Turn off the heater and allow the unit to cool completely. When the machine has cooled, turn on the pump first. Prime the unit by spraying the solution out of the cleaning tool. Then, turn on the heater.